Search results

A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, D_s , D_d and D_r , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics).

In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters D_r/D_s and D_d/D_s , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, I_r and I_d , express the fluid drape behaviour better than D_s , D_r , D₂₀₀ and D_d . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. I_r and I_d have higher CV% than the D_r and D_d data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.

Inter-fibre cohesion is regarded as an important property of assemblies, such as slivers, made of wool or any other fibres, with respect to the processing in carding, drawing (gilling) and spinning. In this paper, the results of the multiple regression analyses, and their validation, are presented to show that a strong relationship exists between the sliver cohesion (measured as sliver tenacity and sliver specific energy-to-break in a long-gauge tensile test) and a combination of the standard wool properties, such as bulk, mean fibre length (Barbe), mean fibre diameter and medullation content, used for the objective blend specification of New Zealand wools for marketing and processing.